First Full Wave at Echo Beach — Canggu, Indonesia
This morning's 9am session at Old Mans is good. I feel more confident in the waves there now that I’ve tried Echo Beach. After the surf I head home to read and sleep. At 3pm I head with the Dr to meet the Saffa and Kiwi at Echo. Yes I’m going back. When the Dr and I arrive the Saffa is already out and the Kiwi is mashing out some waves with the experts. The Dr and I paddle out to meet the Saffa. We smile. A wave rolls in from behind me. I can see it coming. I paddle for it. Last night’s bails are distant memory. The wave takes me. I have a second to pop up onto my feet. I do and ride right down the face and out in front of the liquid beast behind me. Elation, joy, adrenaline...whatever it is it feels 'effing good. I just rode a wave at Echo Beach. I think I might be an intermediate surfer now. Then the sets coming in smash me and remind me to know my place and respect the ocean. 30 minutes later the sets feel and look like mountains. Mountains of water rolling in to shore. There is that fear thing again. The Dr suggests I head in. I agree as the swell grew by 3-4 feet in 30 minutes. I time my paddle and get in without getting smashed. The Dr stays out. I’m stoked. This has been my best surf day yet. Waves this morning and now this ride.
On the way home the Dr and I talk about Echo and prime waves. I tell him about my thoughts on experts and beginners in the same waves. We talk about how when the swell is good the experts don’t want any wave wasted. So if you’re like me and catch some waves and get smashed a lot of the time on others the theory is to get the **** out of the way, go to a place for beginners so as to not waste any waves as each one is precious. He asks me if I know what the term "over the falls" is. I tell him no. “Well it’s when you paddle for a wave and come up short. You are right at the lip and unfortunately for you the wave takes you over, drops you down the vert face and basically smashes you to ****. If that happens in prime waves you just need to get out of the water as no one is going to give you any waves after that. There will be no respect.”
After surfing the Dr and I go for massages. I go most weekends. It is 90,000 Rupiah for an hour full body massage. That’s about 10 CAD. The chick who does my massage has magic hands and for good thing as my body needs it.
Thanks for reading.
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